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Dom's Bridgeport Retrofit Project 
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Made good progress this weekend. Started and finished the breakout board for the axis PSU which contains fuses, external connections and diagnostic LED's.

Also added an earth point to the PSU which I forgot about last week and made a start on mounting the psu inside the big cabinet.

Sorry - no photos this week. Left it until the last minute and then had to leave in a hurry to catch a train.

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Mon Mar 12, 2007 3:33 pm
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Heck of a project Dom ... I bet you thought it'd never get done.

But it seems that your finally making progress.

Good luck.

Woody


Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:19 pm
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End of term at uni/mass of coursework deadlines caused a slight delay in progress but back on track again now.

Starting off with:

Image

This is the Servo PSU LED Diagnostic/Fuse board that I built two weekends ago but didnt photograph at the time.

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Threaded inserts welded to attach servo psu into main electronics cabinet. This was done by bolting the inserts to the underside of the psu base and then epoxying them into the cabinet. Once the epoxy had set I could remove the psu and weld over the glued steel inserts. This way I could be certain the alignment would remain true.

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Marked and drilled all the holes to secure the external switches and sockets.

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Took home all the removable fibreglass panels to be cleaned.

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One of the side panels.

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Some other parts removed from the machine including guards and housings. Not all of it will be re-used.

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This breakout board connects to the Rutex Servodrive motherboard and provides screwdown terminals for limit switches, e-stops and outputs. This is the first attempt which was useless due to a bad etching process.

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As I had to build a new DB15 breakout board anyway, I took the oppertunity to tweak the design a little.

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The new replacement board fresh from the etching tank. Used a photo etching process this time with stunning results. This board was completed from design to manufacture in less than an hour for the price of a few beers. - Long live the student economy and universal student currency!

Unfortunatly in the rush to get it done my housmate misread my design as a top view rather than an underside view so everything is inverted. Hopefully I should be able to rectify this by putting the DB15 connector on the opposite side; though that may cause problems when soldering.

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Here is a rough sketch of the main electronics cabinet and where the largest components will be positioned. The smaller components are not so crucial and will be positioned by eye.

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Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:13 pm
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It recently became apparent that it would be handy to have a list of all the connections going in and out of the electrical cabinet to the various parts to the machine.

This is such a list:

Mains Power Input (230vac) - x1
Live +
Neutral -
Earth

Axis (140vdc) - x4
Motor +
Motor -
Temp +
Temp -
Earth

Encoders (5vdc) - x4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

Limits (24vdc) - x4
Main N/C
Main Com
Backup N/C
Backup Com
Earth


Spindle - x1

Armature (400vdc) +
Armature (400vdc) -
Field (50vdc) +
Field (50vdc) -
Brake (24vdc) +
Brake (24vdc) -
Blower L1 (240vac) +
Blower L2 (240vac) +
Blower L3 (240vac) +
Blower (240vac) -
Gnd

Lube Pump (110vac) - x1
Live +
Neutral -
Earth
Float Switch N/C
Float Switch Com

Suds Pump (110vac) - x1
Live +
Neutral -
Earth

Drawbar Solonoid (24vdc) - x1
Positive +
Negative -

Drawbar Proximity Sensor (9vdc) - x1
Positive +
Signal +
Negative -

Drawbar Drives Disable Switch (24vdc) - x1
N/C +
Com -

E-Stop Switch (24vdc) - x3
N/C +
Com -

Work Lamp (50vac) - x2
Live +
Neutral -
Earth

Computer x 1
LPT1
LPT2
Power (230vac)

MPG x 1
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

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Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:22 am
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Unfortunatly my fears were confirmed and there was no easy way to salvage the incorrectly drawn PCB. While I could have made up a custom cable and swapped the pins, this would have been a lot of extra time and money, not to mention all the designs would then be wrong. I don't want to have that risk of a wire being put in the wrong place so I'm getting another one made up. It may take a week and cost me another fiver but it'll be worth it in the long run.

For the time being I have plenty more to be getting on with.

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I was hoping that the various companies dealing with my spindle motor parts would be able to supply me with some new filter medium for the blower motor. The old stuff looked like it hadnt been changed in the last 20 years. I shopped around with limited success but eventually found a small upholstery shop in Dartmouth that sold just what I needed, a bargain at only £2! In the photo the new filter material is the white stuff on the left and the grey material is the old stuff.

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Finally got my spindle motor back and got all the new parts purchased. In total this cost me over £1,200 but will be worth it in the long run. That price included a 5kva auto transformer, a 0.5kva variable transformer, new spindle brushes, new spindle bearings, new taco brushes, skimming & undercutting of the commutator, a 400v PWM DC motor controller and a static phase convertor for the blower motor.

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The blower/fan forced air cooling unit complete with new filter and static phase convertor (white box).

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The comm, all new and shiny looking; skimmed, undercut and all carbon dust removed.

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5KW auto transformer - This will be used to boost 240vac single phase to 415vac single phase. This will then power the DC PWM drive on the armatrue as well as the phase convertor for the blower motor.

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A small variable transformer which will be used to power the field windings in the motor. Once the voltage has been set it shouldnt need to be changed but it is needed to calibrate it with the DC drive during testing.

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This is the single phase 400v PWM DC motor drive. It takes a 415v AC input and outputs 0 - 400v DC to the armature (spinning bit) of the motor. The output is controlled by a pot, or in this case the pot will be replaced by a 0-10v supply from the computer. The controller also has a taco input for full closed loop control and additionally, an internal bridge-rectifier which can be used to supply DC voltage to the motor field (magnets).

Image

Another photo showing the internal components and connections on the DC drive.

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Sat Mar 31, 2007 5:14 pm
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Yesterday I went up to the workshop and installed the spindle motor back into the machine casting. Everything is back in place though the belt needs to be tensioned properly.

The following tasks stioll need to be completed:

• Get new DB15 breakout board made up

•Buy piece of aluminium to hold electronics in main cabinet

• Get someone to build an aluminium enclosure for the braking resistors

• Make a mounting bracket for the variable transformer

• Drill holes to attach the variable transformer and dc drive to the cabinet

• Dill/Cut holes for all the other cables which need to go into the cabinet.

• Get new rivnut tool from trago and a few hundred M4 rivnuts

• Buy plastic pcb stand-offs and sealed cable connectors

• Buy some grey paint and re-paint the inside of the electronics cabinet.

r components will fit in the same housing as the servo components.

• Update the main diagram to reflect the most recent changes

• Assemble all the component modules onto one metal board to be inserted into the main cabinet

• Make all the internal connections between the component modules

• Pressurewash & Steamclean the machine

• Remove the way covers, sand off rust, polish, grease and replace.

• Oil and grease all exposed surfaces and repaint areas where necessary. (Including servo covers and front splashguard etc)

• Attach the new encoders to the servo motors and wire up to the existing armoured cable.

• Re-attach the electrical cabinets to the machine.

• Re-attach auto-lubrication system and check for blockages at all the outlets.

• Extend all the wires to the sero motors through the armoured conduit so that they reach the appropriate place in the electronics cabinet.

• Make all the connections between the external systems on the machine and the internal connections in the electrical cabinet.

• Produce a wiring diagram to explain what colour does what

• Produce a fault finding diagram/flow chart indication likley causes of failure, how to test and possible solutions

• Speak to electrician about hooking up machine to electrical supply

• Build the PC controller and install operating system to the solid state hard disk.

• Test all the limits and saftey lockouts

• Connect up compressor.

• Test the power drawbar mechanism

• Run SPI tuning on each axis

• Install and configure mach 3

• Design the interface control panel for the computer control unit

• Design the main housing for the computer control unit

• Build the housing for the computer control unit

• Design MPG

• Build MPG

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Wed Apr 04, 2007 2:53 pm
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Don't I get a reference for my lovely bit of etching for you? :P

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Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:22 pm
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--------------------Advertisment-----------------------


http://www.samrhodes.com/

For all your Etching Needs


------------------------------------------------------------

Happy now ? :P

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Sat May 05, 2007 8:32 am
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Image

Finally finished doing all the mechanical peparation work to the electronics cabinet. Drilled a bunch of new holes for all the cabling. Also marked, drilled, tapped and welded mounting points for the servo psu, PSU diagnostic board, spindle transformer(s), spindle speed control, and aluminium backing plate for all the smaller PCB's.

Image

There were quite a few holes left over from old components which no longer exist. To prevent dirt getting in these all had to be covered. In total there were about 5 that had to be done - all very dull and time consuming work but it had to be done regardless.

Image

Built an aluminium housing for the variac by cutting down some 130mm sq box section. Didn't want the steel angle brackets to go rusty so I painted the whole lot a shiny metalic blue.

All the removable metal panels now have holes where there needs to be, and ones that shouldnt covered up. The bulk of the mechanical work to covers and panels is nearly complete.

I spent the other afternoon pressure washing and steamcleaning all the panels to get them ready to be painted and I've found a local profesional painter who is able to do me a good price if I do all the preparatory sanding myself.

Another engineer friend of mine has built me a box to house the braking resistors. I've been told these resistors can cause a lot of noise so a grounded aluminium box should minimise potential problems there.

Once all the metal stuff has been painted and I get it all back I can finally start the fun process of putting everything together.

I really need to take another look at my wiring diagram and modify it slightly as I've learnt a lot more since I first drew it and several things have changed since. I also need to find a supplier of some 415v 30amp contactors to do the reversing on the spindle motor.

I also need to make a slight addition/modification to my servo powersupply.
I've been advised to add MOV's (metal oxide varistors) accross each fuse which will protect the machine from power surges. The idea being that the MOV will blow the fuse as soon as the voltage rises, rather than the fuse alone which would wait for a current rise before acting.

Right now I have coursework deadlines and exams comming out my ears so the bridgeport retrofit is going to have to take a backseat until the end of the month. Come the start of next month I should have enough free time to spend a few days each week back at home making more progress.

I really can't wait to see this machine running. I've had it for almost a year now just sitting as a very large paperweight. The day it starts making chips will be a day to celebrate indeed!

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Sat May 05, 2007 9:26 am
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hi

Very nice work Dom

cheers


Thu May 31, 2007 11:44 pm
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Thanks but.....

..who are you ? :?

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Sat Jun 02, 2007 1:18 pm
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Hi Dom

I'm a new member of this forum

I come across this wensite through www.cnczone.com


cheers


Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:27 am
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Thats awesome, welcome to the boards. :)

Are you based locally or further afield ?

The website is growing slowly at the moment but I hope we will be able to assist with any problems you might have.

Later on this year we will be adding a lot more content in the form of articles and doccumentation.

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Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:44 am
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Back home from university for the summer vacation. This time I WILL get it finished!

Finally got a box to house my braking resistors. I've been told they will produce a lot of electrical noise so this should help to contain it.

Yesterday I managed to find a local paintshop owner who quoted me half of what the previous place did, and they will do all the prep work for me too.

£80 to have all my metal panels sprayed with 2-pac sounds good to me!

Plan for today is to go through my diagram, update anything missing and order any extra components I need.

Still don't know what Mov's would be suitable for surge protection on my PSU.

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Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:25 am
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Latest to-do list (It's getting smaller!)

• Drill/solder db15 breakout board

• Drill holes in resistor box

• Send panels off to be painted

• Buy plastic pcb stand-offs and sealed cable connectors

• Research, purchase and fit MOV's to PSU

• Attach the new encoders to the servo motors and wire up to the existing armoured cable.

• Assemble all the component modules onto one metal board to be inserted into the main cabinet

• Make all the internal connections between the component modules

• Update the main diagram to reflect the most recent changes

• Re-attach the electrical cabinets & Panels to the machine.

• Re-attach auto-lubrication system and check for blockages at all the outlets.

• Extend all the wires to the sero motors through the armoured conduit so that they reach the appropriate place in the electronics cabinet.

• Make all the connections between the external systems on the machine and the internal connections in the electrical cabinet.

• Produce a wiring diagram to explain what colour does what - Label wires with ID tags.

• Connect up compressor & test power drawbar mechanism

• Run SPI tuning on each axis

• Install and configure mach 3

• Test all the limits and saftey lockouts

• Connect up compressor & test power drawbar mechanism

• Speak to electrician about hooking up machine to electrical supply

• Design & build housing for CPU, VDU and control panel

• Design & build MPG

• Pressurewash & Steamclean the machine

• Remove the way covers, sand off rust, polish, grease and replace.

• Oil and grease all exposed surfaces and repaint areas where necessary. (Including servo covers and front splashguard etc)

• Produce a fault finding diagram/flow chart indication likley causes of failure, how to test and possible solutions

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Wed Jul 11, 2007 11:00 am
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Well this is my first post for some time so those of you who have been following this project with interest; I havent given up or lost interest, just other things have taken priority.

Shortly after making my last post in July I was offered a summer job at a local company where I was involved with the design and manufacture of various automated production systems. It was a fantastic experience and I learnt a lot but it also meant that my time for messing about with my bridgeport was reduced substantially.

Then at the end of the summer holiday in the last two weeks where I was originally planning to start pulling all the loose ends of this project together, I was given the chance to spend two weeks in Austria. Considering those chances dont come up every day it's not difficult to guess which one I chose.

By the time I returned from austria in the first week of october It was time for me to return to uni. Considering how long this project has already taken I decided to make the most of my time at uni, taking a car boot full of electronics back with me so I could make some more progress here in my spare time.

Since getting back to my uni house I have turned the downstairs conservatory into a workshop kitted out with various test equipment, a dedicated pc for running my cnc control software and a whole load of other tools and equipment.

My intention is to assemble and connect all the logic boards onto a single sheet of aluminum which can then be taken home and bolted into the main electrical cabinet as a single module.

Following the 'measure twice; cut once' ideal I thought i'd get my design work up to scratch before making any holes in anything. In keeping with this I have spent the last week updating the wiring diagram to the latest revision as a lot of the stuff I had put on paper was based on guestimates and unknowns which I now know to be incorrect.

This morning I have finished the wiring diagram to I point where I'm happy to proceed further as I dont think any part of it will change drastically from now on.

My next job will be to produce another diagram for positioning all my components and boards onto the ali sheet. This should not take nearly so long as the other one as it really will be just a case of measuring all the PCB's and drawing scale boxes in my CAD package to represent each one so I can work out the most efficient way of positioning it all on the board.

In addition to this I will produce a table/chart/diagram which lists all the port and pin mappings which will need to be configured into mach3. There probably isnt much need to do this in advance but can be done as I go along and used as a backup in case the compute fails in the future and I loose all the configuration settings.

I need to buy a small handful of components such as various types of cable, trunking, rivnuts, breakers and a contactors. Once I have ordered these and they have arrived I can mount all the boards to the metal sheet and start wiring everything up.

Better still, I have brought some small servo motors with me which I salvaged off an old printing press a few years ago so I can actually use these to test everything in real time and for the first time ever get an accurate idea of how the machine will operate.

This being my final year at uni means my workload for that is rather high which isnt leaving me as much time to play with machinery as i'd like. Still, my plan at the moment is to work really hard these next few weeks and finish all my coursework at least 1 week early. By ensuring this I will be able to go home 1 week early (before the xmas hols) giving me a full 5 weeks to get my machine running.

Anyway, thats enough of my excuses; here are some more photos:

Image

Above: The main electrical cabinet with a new coat of paint and both axis + spindle power supplys fitted.

Image

Above: The final revision of the wiring diagram.

Download DXF

Download WMF

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Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:44 am
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In the last four weeks everything has started to come together and the pace has really picked up. I've spent about another £200 on parts; mainly wires, connectors and fixings. Once all these parts arrived I layed out all the boards/components on a big sheet of aluminium and spent the best part of a day positioning everything in the most efficient manor. It soon became apparent that I had a lot of PCBs and not a lot of space to put them!

With everything positioned, I got a permenant marker, marked out over 120 holes and proceeded to drill each one ... twice. Now the original plan here was to use Rivnuts as I needed in excess of 100 M3 threaded holes which I didnt fancy tapping by hand. Unfortunatly I discovered very early on that M3 rivnuts are very difficult things to use as they have a nasty tendency to snap the insertion tool before theyve squashed down with enough grip into the aluminium sheet. Fortunately I discovered this on a test piece right at the start so at least I didnt have to deal with 120 oversized holes.

Image

Reluctantly I went down to my local hardware store, purchased an M3, M4 & M6 tap and then spent an entire day just cutting threads. Although monotonous, it wasnt quite as bad as it sounds. Due to a spell of cold weather I had already moved my operations from the consevatory to the living room of our student accomodation (much to the confusion of my housemates) so I was sat on the sofa in comfort, cutting threads whilst watching top gear on Dave. Still, I was very glad to reach the final hole.

The next step was much quicker and involved screwing in about 100 x 30mm x m3 aluminium posts into each of the M3 holes. These posts are male on one end, female on the other and are for mounting all the PCB's so they are raised off the aluminium baseplate, thus preventing short circuits.

Image

With the posts in place it was time for yet another supprise; turns out that the mounting holes on nearly every PCB were M2.5 not M3 which meant a lot of frantic last minute drilling which I hadnt planned for. With that done I was able to screw down all the PCB's within an hour or so. Next to go in was all the cable trunking. I had pre-cut this so it just had to be bolted down but I had to cut all the covers to size and drill through some holes that became covered over.

Now all the hardware was in place I was able to start putting in the wires. The great thing with this part was it had already been planned out on the wiring diagram so it really didnt involve too much thinking. Within about three days I had virtually all the wires in place which meant time for some testing.

Image

First thing to be tested was the E-stop circuitry. When an e-stop button is pressed it is supposed to send a signal to tell the control software but also send another signal to a timer which energises a contactor. The idea is that the fastest and safest way to stop the machine is through software but as a backup in case that fails for any reason, a contactor will remove all power from the machine in a fraction of a second longer than it would expect the software to have done its job.

Despite having designed it correctly, a lot of the time I was just wiring stuff from memory which was fine except for the fact I was remembering a previous version of the diagram which had a few errors. As a result I had ended up wiring the power to the contactor coil to the output from the contactor. This meant as soon as the contactor was triggered it went into an infinate loop condition where it rapidly pulsed on and off until power was removed at source.... not really a huge problem to fix but I did check over the rest of the wiring a little more carefully after that.

Image

The next problem was with another safety cutout; the charge pump. This device is a small PCB with a relay output which is energised when it recieves a 12.5khz signal from the control software. The purpose of this is to prevent any undesired operation from noise on the signal lines as a result of the software having not yet been loaded or crashing. That one relay then switches several other relays which cut power to anything potentially dangerous.

The first problem with this was I did not know how to make the software output a 12.5khz signal so I figured I could short the relay contacts for the time being to achieve the same effect. This should have switched on several other realys powering up everything else on the board but instead I got a medium sized blue spark. At first I thought this might have just been from a bad contact + inductance from the relay coils but after a bit more investigation I discovered the true cause.

Image

The relays & holders were ones I had salvaged from the original control system that came with the machine when I bought it and I hadnt really noticed the diodes wired accross the coil connections - well they werent on my diagram so as far as I was concerned they didnt exist :P. Of course the diodes were wired the wrong way round so rather than blocking back EMF from the coils they were just shorting the output from my 24v supply.

After swapping the diodes round I was then able to power up everything else and soon worked out how to output signal to enable the charge pump electronically. This wasnt made any easier by a typo on my diagram which meant all the output pins on the board in question had the wrong pin numbers written beside them so although the computer was sending out a signal I was always measuring for a voltage on the wrong output.

Image

While installing the relays my next brainwave was the realisation that all the relays were double pole which hadnt been accounted for in my diagram. Thinking i was really clever being able to save some space I ripped out two of the relays/holders with the intention of switching 4 connections on two relays. This would have been fine but that was before realising that although all the relays were powered up together from the same source they could be powered down separately. Feeling quite retarded at this point I quietly wired the other relays back in hoping no one else would notice my mistake.

After playing round with a few more features of the software I decided it was time to move onto the servo motors, controllers and PID tuning. It didnt take me long to wire everything up and having borrowed an additional 24v PSU from the university cybernetics dept, I soon had everything ready to go.

I have been running my CNC control system off two PCI parrallel port cards which windows defines as LPT2 & LPT3 respectively. Unfortunately the PID tuning software is a bit fussy and requires some very specific options on the connection front.

For a start it requires to be connected to LP1 which meant going into BIOS to enable that port and then swapping over the data cable. With that done it still didnt work and it took several more reboots to realise that there was a bit more to it. Not only did it want the port LPT1 the software also requried the hexadecimal port address of 0x378 and IRQ 7. Once I had got these technicalities out the way I had a bit more success.

For a start I powered up the logic side of the servodrives but put no power to the motor connection. Looking on the screen the software told me it had a successful SPI connection and it had detected the encoder. Turning the motor shaft (and thus encoder as well) by hand caused numbers on an onscreen DRO to change -this was looking very promising! Particularly considering I was only using single ended encoders but had wired them into an interface expecting a differential signal.

With this stage complete, I set the default values on the software, saved them to the EEPROM on the drives and then switched on the power supply to the motor. Turning the motor shaft now revealed more good news; it was actually working as a servo, albeit very very overdamped. Within 15 minutes I had managed to find a good compromise for the PID settings but then spent more hours than I care to think trying to refine it further without success. It seemed I could only achieve very overdamped or a tiny bit undedamped but never critically damped which fustrated me immensly.

After consulting some friends they suggested that it was only possible to get a critically damped response in a perfect system and that perfect systems don't exist in the real world, though they still agreed with my thinking that a little overdamped would be better than a little underdamped.

At this point I had a few other questions in mind so I phone the supplier of my drives over at Rutex in the US and found the answer I was looking for. What I had experienced was both correct and normal. The test & config software simulates extreme conditions where in order to get a fast response it is normal for the result to be a little underdamped. Under normal operation the NC software will have accel and decel ramps which will prevent the under damped condition from occuring.

Having had so much success with one drive I thought i'd try my luck with a second and third. I dug out two more motors, connected up some longer wires and just ran them off the power supply directly to check they were running free and not drawing excess current. Until now all was going well but it had started to get dark, I had started to get very tired and accidently picked up the wrong two wires from a bunch and connected up the motor supply to the first servo drive backwards. After not seeing any movement for a few seconds I sensed something was amiss and quickly disconnected the power.

Fearing the wost I fired up the NC software to see if I could still operate the drive but it would not work at all because it was halting on an E-stop caused my a (non existant) limit switch signal. At this point I figured I had caused enough damage for one day and would sleep on it before trying to work out just what I had blown up.

After a lot of messing about I realised I had done no damage to my servodrive, motherboard or breakout board and what I had discovered was a whole new and unrelated problem.

Every time I plugged in a servo drive into one of the free slots on the motherboard it tripped a different limit switch input. What didnt make much sense was how it only seemed to affect the 3 spare slots and not the first slot I used. Eventually I realised that the first slot in the motherboard is considered to be the A axis slot, but I had disabled the limit switches for the a axis as I dont have one yet and was using the x limits for the a axis. This isnt a problem in itself and I can do that quite happily if I want to, but it explains why the problem wasnt showing up on the first drive. As soon as I enabled the A limits those tripped the system too.

After considering a whole range of possibilities from dodgy PCI parrallel port cards, to noise and incorrect paramaters in the servodrives I finally realised that the switches HAD to be normally closed. Most breakout boards and NC software allows you to choose if your inputs are normally closed or normally open but rutex doesnt give you this option. So I made the appropriate settings in Mach3 for the input state and shorted all the limit inputs with bits of wire and everything started to work again. Pulling out a wire would trip the system causing an e-stop condition BUT Mach3 was not recognaising this state change in the diagnostic screen.

A bit more experimentation revealed the problem. When a limit is pressed this causes an E-stop condition which stops the the enable signal going to the chargepump which in turn cuts power to the servo drives. Now this normally closed switch requirement only manifests itself whilst the servodrive/motherboard is powered. So as soon as the power is removed the signal dissapears so mach no longer registers a state change.

I suppose there are two ways to go about fixing this; either I can stop the servodrives being powered down in an e-stop condition (keep the charge pump running so long as the NC software is open on the PC) or I can try and change the program so hitting a limit doesnt invoke a full e-stop condition in the first place. Either way it will need a bit more thought.

Whilst looking through the diagram I've spotted another potential flaw. At the moment I have the spindle fan, field, spindle brake and enable switch all on the same output. While this did keep things simple its hardly ideal. Mach has a minimum speed setting to stop the motor stalling so I think when the motor is enabled by calling an M3/M4 it will try to switch on all that stuff and take it up to 25% or whatever the min speed is set to.

In which case what I really want is the ability to swithc on the field windings, brake and fan first then delay for a second or two and then enable the spindle drive. .. and the same thing in reverse for switching off. If I need to free up another output pin I can parrallel the oil pump relay onto the same output as the spindle fan/field/brake. This is how bridgeport did it originally anyway, I just wanted individual control of the oil pump for testing purposes.

I'll have another play with mach3 tomorrow and try to wire up the other two motors and run the PID tuning on those drives. After that I'll have to return the power supply to uni so the next big progression will have to wait until I get home.

Until then, here's a video of the latest developments:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=wY7I9xevxU8

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Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:00 pm
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Discovered another small issue... I noticed that the 5v/12v PSU was getting very warm, possibly a little too warm. This prompted me to run some checks on current draw which revealed the following:

24v Supply: 260ma
12v Supply: 18ma
5v Supply: 500ma

This is all well within the tollerances of the PSU so I'll have to chase up the manufacturer on that one.

Below is a list of the PID settings for my test motors. Just posting it here really so I dont lose it:

4 Point SPI Interpolation
500us Servo Loop
Kp - 10,000
Ki - 5,000
Kd - 6,000
Kd Index - 5
Current Limit - 4

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We're big boys, We build big toys, We're handy with a spanner; If it don't work, We go beserk and hit it with an 'ammer


Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:25 am
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More info for my own reference:

Air Pressure - 80Psi

X & Y Axis - 5mm Pitch Ballscrews, 2:1 reduction timing belt

Z Axis - 5mm Pitch Ballscrews, ?? reduction timing belt.

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Thu Jan 03, 2008 10:17 pm
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Hi,

Very impressive work so far. I am also doing a Bridgeport Series I MDI retrofit. I have used Rutex 2020 drives too in a retrofit last year. For this machine I am using analog amps with Pixie P100 drives for PID control (Pixies have been discontinued too :( ). Too bad that Rutex are no longer in business. These would have been excellent for my retrofit. You can view my retrofits at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kjDYrQrgCY.


Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:03 am
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